Last Updated on 3週間 ago by Nomambo
Introduction — A Quiet Beginning in Aizuwakamatsu
Rain fell softly over Nanukamachi Street, giving the old wooden buildings a muted glow.
Visitors moved between cafés and merchant houses, umbrellas tapping gently against the pavement.
As I walked with the crowd, a narrow side lane caught my eye.
Just beyond it lay a quiet residential area—no tourists, no footsteps, only lights glowing behind shoji doors.
Local families were spending the rainy afternoon indoors.
That brief glimpse revealed the real Nanukamachi to me:
a place where everyday life and tourism exist side by side, neither overpowering the other.
Aizuwakamatsu, in the heart of Fukushima Prefecture, grew as a key crossroads town.
Its history still lives on—not as staged attractions, but as castles, crafts, and simple local dishes shaped by centuries of daily life.
With lunch in mind and history ahead of me, I stepped back into the rhythm of the street.
History & Craft — Traditions That Still Live in Aizu
Tsurugajo Castle
Tsurugajo Castle stands as the symbol of Aizu’s quiet resilience.
Its white walls rise calmly above the town, reflecting a culture shaped by samurai values—discipline, sincerity, and endurance.
From the top floor, the view opens to tiled rooftops, small gardens, and distant mountains.
It is not dramatic, but deeply grounding—ordinary life layered over a long and proud past.
What Makes Tsurugajo Castle Worth Visiting?
- The most iconic landmark for understanding Aizu’s history
- A museum inside introduces the Aizu domain and samurai culture
- City and mountain views from the top floor
Tips for Travelers
- Allow time to explore multiple museum floors
- Admission fee required for the main keep
- The surrounding park is ideal for a short walk
- Official website is here
Iimoriyama
Halfway up Mt. Iimori, the trees parted, revealing a peaceful view of Tsurugajo and the town below.
The air was gentle, but knowing this hillside once held young warriors during a tragic moment in Aizu’s history made even the breeze feel subdued.
Yet when you actually climb it, the atmosphere is surprisingly soft.
At the top stands Sazaedo, a wooden hall with a rare double-helix structure.
Inside, the air becomes cool and slightly damp.
As I climbed the dim spiral path, light filtered through small square windows, illuminating carvings and wooden textures that shifted subtly with each turn.
When I reached the exit—on a completely different path from where I had entered—the outside world felt brighter than before.
What Makes Iimoriyama Worth Visiting?
- A historic hillside overlooking Aizuwakamatsu
- Viewpoints toward Tsurugajo Castle and the town
- Home to Sazaedo and several memorial sites
Tips for Travelers
- Map Link: here
- Allow 1–1.5 hours at a relaxed pace
- Small entrance fee for Sazaedo
- Wear comfortable walking shoes
- Early mornings are especially quiet
Urushi-no-Eki — A Pause in the Rhythm of Daily Life
“We only work with wood,” the shop owner said with pride.
The moment I touched lacquered wooden bowl, I understood.
The warmth, the weight, and the way it seemed to settle naturally into my palm
I imagined drinking soup from the bowl, how the texture of the wood would soften the heat and deepen the flavors.
In our fast-paced lives, efficiency often dictates our choices.
But this bowl slowed time down, reminding me that tools can shape the pace of a day.
What Makes Urushi-no-eki Worth Visiting?
- Purchase Aizu lacquerware directly from local artisans
- Focus on everyday bowls, chopsticks, and cups
- Practical pieces meant for daily life, not souvenirs
Tips for Travelers
- 20min walk from the nearest station(Map)
- Light dust on items is common and not a quality issue
- English may be limited; handling the pieces helps with selection
Local Food — Taste of an Aizu Everyday Life
The Stories Behind Aizu’s Food Culture
Aizu’s cuisine reflects its inland geography and history as a trade hub.
Before modern transport, preserved ingredients—dried scallops, shiitake, fermented foods—formed the backbone of local cooking.
Kozuyu tells this story in a single bowl.
Its gentle umami speaks of ingenuity shaped by limitation, later becoming a celebratory dish for all households.
Meiji-era influences brought new flavors home, giving rise to comfort foods like sauce katsudon.
Aizu’s food is not performative—it is history made edible.
Kuru Kuru Ken — A Bowl That Welcomes You Home
As I approached Kuru Kuru Ken, a nostalgic aroma drifted out through the old metal vent above the door.
The steam carried a warmth that felt like someone saying, “Welcome back.”
Inside, every seat was filled.
The clatter of pans, the lively exchanges between regulars, and the quick, practiced movements of the two-person staff created a comforting sort of busyness.
I ordered a bowl I had been thinking about since my last visit: milk ramen, said to have originated right here.
When the bowl arrived, the milky-white broth looked almost like a soft, wintery fog.
One sip revealed a gentle sweetness layered over the light Aizu-style soup base.
The curly noodles caught the broth perfectly, and the glistening kernels of corn added simple but striking contrast.
By the time I stepped back outside, the late-autumn wind bit at my cheeks.
Yet the warmth from the ramen lingered deep inside, making even the cold evening air feel pleasant.
What makes Kurukuruken Worth Visiting?
- Birthplace of Aizu milk ramen
- Mild, comforting flavor unique to the region
- Casual, local atmosphere
Tips
- Busy during lunch hours
- Limited seating; small groups work best
- Aizu jidori chicken ankake ramen is also recommended
- Map Link: here
Shibukawa Donya — A Taste of Time Itself
Once a seafood wholesaler, Shibukawa Donya still carries the structure of shop and home combined.
The dim interior and darkened beams hold decades of quiet memory.
Kozuyu, herring with sansho, and simmered codfish arrived one by one, each dish echoing Aizu’s preserved-food traditions.
Here, history is not explained—it is tasted.
What Makes Shibukawa Donya Worth Visiting
- Historic merchant house offering traditional Aizu cuisine
- Architecture and food experienced together
- A calm, immersive dining atmosphere
Tips for Travelers
- Reservations recommended
- Easy to miss—Google Maps link
- Best enjoyed without rushing
How to Visit Aizuwakamatsu
Access:
From Tokyo, take the Tohoku Shinkansen to Koriyama, then transfer to the Banetsu West Line for Aizuwakamatsu.
Total travel time is roughly 4.5 hours.
Recommended Stay:
If you focus on Aizuwakamatsu and nearby attractions, one night and two days is enough for a fulfilling visit.
Best Seasons:
- Spring–autumn: Pleasant temperatures and beautiful scenery.
- Winter: Snow adds a quiet, poetic atmosphere—perfect for the “Still Japan” experience, but prepare for cold weather.
Conclusion — A Gentle Place to Rest Your Heart
Turning a single corner off Nanukamachi Street, the scene changed completely.
The hum of visitors faded, replaced by a quieter rhythm—houses tucked close together, curtains drawn against the rain, footsteps suddenly fewer.
Walking there, I wondered if Nanukamachi is not only a place for travelers after all.
Perhaps local residents, too, pass through this street without much thought—taking a slow walk, stopping for a coffee, letting the day unfold as usual.
In Aizuwakamatsu, tourism and everyday life do not separate themselves neatly.
They overlap, gently and without explanation, sharing the same streets at different speeds.
And maybe that is what makes this town feel so balanced—
a place where nothing needs to be staged, because life itself is already happening.
Aizu offers nothing artificial.
Its food, landscapes, and traditions were shaped naturally over time—and that is precisely their strength.
For those seeking Japan off the beaten path, slow travel Japan, or quiet moments in hidden towns of Japan, Aizuwakamatsu asks only this:
walk slowly, look closely, and let the silence speak.
Here, Japan feels enduring, human, and gently at ease.
If Aizuwakamatsu feels like a place where tourism and daily life quietly overlap,
Minamiaizu lies even further along that same rhythm—where life continues with little regard for visitors at all.